Nairobi’s Kibera

his spring, I visited Nairobi, Kenya, and its sprawling in formal settlement, Kibera, at the height of record floods,
just before the riots that captured inter national headlines. The floods, widely attributed to climate change, and the ri ots, sparked by the federal government’s proposed tax increases, are intensified by a long history of corruption and public dissatisfaction. During my stay, I had the good fortune of meeting Aquaman and the Vonya Brothers—a close knit group of family and childhood friends. They welcomed me into Kibera, their home, neigh
borhood, and community, offering me the chance to experience daily life I even had the pleasure of cooking chapatis with the children at a local or phanage. (YouTube of children at local orphanage)Through these exceptional young men, I learned a great deal about resilience and resourcefulness in one of Africa’s largest slums.

KIBERA’S COMPLEX REALITY

Kibera is home to at least 250,000 residents, though some estimates place the population at over 700,000. Located just a 20-minute boda-boda (motorbike taxi) ride from Nairobi’s central business district (CBD), Kibera’s inhabitants often start their day with this commute.

The CBD itself is a microcosm of Ken ya’s formal and informal economies: government offices and banks on one side, and an endless array of informal jobs and markets on the other. Ken ya’s informal economy employs over 16 million people, accounting for 85% of the nation’s labor force, and includes everything from street markets selling second-hand goods to ‘side hustles’ and microenterprises.

Much of the informal economy spills into Kibera, where daily necessities—second-hand clothing, appliances, hygiene products—are sold on blankets spread across the dirt roads. Women run food stalls, selling items like sugar cane and chapati, while men dominate as boda-boda drivers. Life here is tough. Roads are rocky, electricity is sporadic, and access to clean water and proper sanitation is limited. Public toilets are rare and costly, forcing many to rely on the infamous ‘flying toilets,’ plastic bags of excrement tossed into the streets, further degrading living conditions.

RESILIENCE IN THE FACE OF NEGLECT Victor Kidimuvonya, a member of the community outreach group The Vonya Brothers (YouTube:@TheVon yaBrothers), explained that “the government doesn’t play a big role in sup porting the people of Kibera. Mostly, Kibera is ignored while the people here tourism and international aid bring some attention and resources to Kibera, much of it never reaches those in need. NGOs, however, play a critical role in sponsoring children’s education and supporting community projects. Despite the many challenges, Kibera is a place of fierce resilience and creativity. People work tirelessly to improve their lives and provide for their families, even in the absence of formal

THE ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT

Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, is a hub for international business, but beneath its modern exterior lies a city steeped in are in need of basic things.” While slum support. Aquaman’s water lines snaking through Kibera | Brendan Collins colonial history and rife with inequality. While capitalism and entrepreneurship have flourished, they have also exacter bated the divide between the wealthy and the poor. Yet even in Kibera, entre preneurial endeavors are alive and well, supported by innovative technologies like MPesa, a digital banking platform that has revolutionized financial inclusion. Before MPesa’s launch in 2006, less than 30% of Kenyans had access to financial services. Today, that figure is over 96%.

In Kibera, entrepreneurs have found ways to deliver vital services like electricity and clean water, albe it through informal means. Some locals, for instance, have plugged into Nairobi’s electrical grid and charge customers a fee for access. Similarly, a few fortunate ‘aqua-preneurs’ have tapped into the Nairobi River’s water supply, selling clean water to their neighbors through networks of hoses and pipes.

AQUAMAN’S VISION One of the most inspiring individuals I met in Kibera was Aqua man, as the Vonya Brothers affectionately call him. Using his savings, Aquaman secured the exclusive rights to install water lines throughout the settlement. Unlike many others, his hoses are buried deep beneath the roads, safe from the frequent floods that plague Kibera. Aquaman’s success is a testament to both his business acumen and his deep commitment to bettering his community. By rallying his friends and neighbors to help dig trenches for the water lines, he created jobs and ensured a reliable supply of clean water for hundreds of families.

However, even Aquaman’s efforts are vulnerable to sabotage; during my visit, rival ‘aqua-preneurs’ dug up parts of his system. Yet, his resolve remains unshaken. As Kibera continues to bat
tle environmental and economic hard ship, community leaders like Aquaman and the Vonya Brothers are constantly innovating, finding ways to adapt and thrive.

THE BIGGER PICTURE

Life in Kibera is difficult, but it is not without hope. From so lar electricity initiatives to WiFi hotspots and clean water distribution, entrepreneurs and community leaders are building a better future for themselves and their neighbors. As Kenya’s largest in formal settlement, Kibera’s challenges are immense, but its people’s resourcefulness and resilience shine through. Brendan Collins lives in Bratislava, Slovakia, and writes about his travels and the extraordinary people he meets.